ОБРАЗНО-СТИЛЬОВА СПЕЦИФІКА ТА ТЕНДЕНЦІЇ РОЗВИТКУ ІСТОРИЗМУ У ТВОРЧОСТІ ПРОВІДНИХ СВІТОВИХ ДИЗАЙНЕРІВ І БУДИНКІВ МОД 1950–1970-Х РОКІВ
| Main Author: | Галудзіна-Горобець В. І. |
|---|---|
| Format: | Article eJournal |
| Bahasa: | ukr |
| Terbitan: |
, 2019
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| Subjects: | |
| Online Access: |
https://zenodo.org/record/2531887 |
Daftar Isi:
- The historical method development in clothes design during 1950 – 1970s is analyzed. Its figurative and style specificity and trends of development in the works of leading world designers and Fashion Houses are described. Objectives– to characterize the figurative and style specificity and trends of historical method development in the works of leading world designers and Fashion Houses during 1960 – 1970s. Methods. In the detection of the specificity of leading trends of historical method development in clothes design of 1950 – 1970s the method of system and synergetic approach was used. In determining of the stadium originality of historical method during the analyzed period the method of comparative and historical analysis was used. In the discovery of the figurative and style specificity of the works of leading designers the stylistic art criticism analysis was used. Results. The main tendencies of historical method development during 1950 – 1970s became the following ones: actualization of forms, silhouette, design, cut, decor of Rococo and neo-coco costume in the style of “New Look”; address to the historical artistic styles of the Middle Ages, the Renaissance, neoclassicism, Empire style, coordinated with the current fashion trends, author’s figurative plan and the concept of the form; the eclectic combination in one model or collection of elements of various historical artistic styles, ethnics, retro, etc. The fi rst direction is presented by Christian Dior and other followers of New Look style, the second one is presented by Cristobal Balenciaga collections, and the third one is represented by Yves Saint-Laurent and others’ creative experiments. The peculiarities of creative reinterpretation of historical sources in New Look style, primarily the works of Christian Dior are the associativity, the reproduction of not only formal and constructive elements, but also semantic spheres of historical costumes. The Cristobal Balenciaga’s creative works can be considered as one of the most integrated “individual historical concepts”, the development of which was affected not only by “historical” trends of 1950 – 1960s but also the experience of referring to the historical sources of designers of the first half of XX century. The beginning of new trends in the interpretation of historical artistic and style sources based on the principles of aesthetically motivated eclecticism, playing with cultural codes and integration into clothes design of the principles of postmodern aesthetic was made by Yves Saint-Laurent at the end of 1960s and in 1970s. Conclusions. It was established that the main trends of actualization of historical sources in 1950 – 1970s became the reinterpretation of forms, silhouette, construction, cut, decor of the historical costume of rococo and neo-rococo in conjunction with the revival of Belle époque aesthetics in New Look style; the creative interpretation of the historical artistic styles of the Middle Ages, the Renaissance, neoclassicism, Empire style that is coordinated with current fashion trends and is subjected to the author’s conceptual plan and the author’s concept of form; the eclectic combination in one collection or model of the elements of various historical artistic styles, ethnics, retro. The example of the works of leading designers demonstrated that the subject of creative, adapted to modern fashion trends, reinterpretation of the traditions of rococo and neo-rococo in New Look style the image of a woman which is sophisticated, like the work of art, and also a form, a silhouette, design features of a costume served. It was discovered that the peculiarities of Christian Dior’s collections and models were the associativity, reproduction of forms and silhouettes of rococo and neo-rococco costumes in new materials and in adaptation to modern perception, contrasts of volumes, curved and straight lines, the reproduction of the rococo and neo-rococo styles images of elegant luxurious life thanks to texture and colour effects that remind the historical outfit. It was established that the figurative and style and formal and constructive peculiarities of Cristobal Balenciaga’s creative work became the masterful stylization of historical stylistic forms, associative reproduction of the semantic sphere of historical costume, perception of the cultures of the past through the prism of works of painting, synthesis in the original designer image of the Spanish and French artistic traditions; restraint and laconicism, clear architectonics, sculpture of models, form monumentalism, image-forming significance of an abstract silhouette, perfection of lines and proportions, perfection and harmony of details, using of form-forming possibilities of materials and contrasts of textures. Three groups of historically inspired collections of Cristobal Balenciaga are distinguished. They are models figurative and style and formal and constructive decisions of which are due to reinterpretation of historical artistic styles and their contemporary costume; models based on the reflection of the semantic sphere of Catholicism and historical outfit of bishops, vicarians, nuns in the clothes design paradigm of 1950 – 1960s; models created on the basis of reinterpretation of the traditional Spanish costume, which are in the “peripheral zone” of historical method in clothes design. It was established that the beginning of new trends in understanding of historical artistic styles based on the principles of aesthetically motivated eclecticism, playing with cultural codes and integration into clothes design of the principles of postmodern aesthetics was laid. It was found out that the figurative and style peculiarities of Yves Saint-Laurent’s creative work became the combination of historical and actual elements of costume, historical method and ethno, historical method and retro, masterful harmonization of different-scale inspirations on the basis of dialogue, synthesis or contrast-conflict.